Technology

When asked at a recent conference what Additive Manufacturing was, Dr. Mike Fralix answered that is was merely the opposite of Subtractive Manufacturing!  Additive manufacturing describes the act of adding materials together to create objects versus subtracting from larger pieces to form objects or parts.  Many products are assembled from pieces cut from large rolls of fabric, blocks of wood or sheets of metal using the subtractive manufacturing method. Hand knitting is one of the oldest forms of additive manufacturing. The most talked about additive manufacturing process as of late is 3D printing, however there are other new modern additive processes such as full-garment knitting, laser sintering and electron beam welding. There are also some interesting bio-engineering processes such as growing human organs and skin, animal meat, leather, growing bricks from bacteria, and urea and clothes from yeast and sugar that are emerging. All of these new methods will revolutionize manufacturing, as we know it.

Advanced Knitting

Full garment knitting (aka whole or complete garment knitting) is a process that starts with yarns and a 3D knit design and ends with a fully finished wearable garment or usable product.  Two companies, Shima Seiki and Stoll produce knitting machines capable of creating these types of garments. Knitting a full garment can be more efficient, if the machine speed is good, in comparison to more traditional method of flat knitting panels of garments, such as sweaters, which often require a further step to sewing them together at the seams.  Making the whole garment at once allows for some amazing (an otherwise impossible) design and structural capabilities and also drastically reduces wasted material.

Nike has debuted a similar concept with their Flyknit running shoes. The shoe ‘uppers’ are knitted using a 3D knitting process, which eliminates waste and produces a much lighter yet breathable product. The project team, consisting of engineers, material experts and designers, built in support structures where they are most needed for running, using different types of knit stitches and methods- something that would be impossible to do as elegantly by the traditional cut and sew method.  I wouldn’t quite call this full garment knitting, as the soles still have to be attached to the upper – and are not being created by one machine- yet.

Additive Metal Manufacturing

Electron beam Direct Manufacturing is a new technology introduced by Sciaky that gives the capability to “print” metal parts using a laser beam. The laser beam, guided by a computer using a 3D CAD file, fuses a metal wire to create a whole part. After the part is created, it still must be finished - much as a cast metal part needs to be further refined. Sciaky’s EBDM machine can create large metal parts (up to 19’x4’), such as those used in the defense and aviation industries made of stainless steel and other high value alloys.

There is also a similar “metal printing” process that utilizes laser-sintering technology. It also utilizes a 3D CAD file to direct the beam to fuse metal powder into a finished part. Machines with this technology, such as those produced by EOS, can make small parts, molds and products.  Metal powder is poured into the machine, and a beam fuses the part inside of the “sea” of powder. After the part has been created, the extra, un-fused powder can be reclaimed and reused. The part must be heat hardened and finished.  Another similar technology, Laser Metal Deposition Welding, forces a stream of metallic powder into contact with a laser that is also used to weld layers of metal onto objects or weld pieces of metal together. Trumpf is a provider of these types of machines. As this technology becomes more widely used and the price decreases, consumers will eventually have the ability to print their own replacement metal parts for their cars or lawnmowers and the lead time for manufacturers to produce items that are out of stock will be reduced.

Breakthroughs in Bio-processes

On the frontiers of bio-engineering, researchers at Heriot-Watt University and Roslin Cellab have successfully used a 3D printer to print stem cells. They believe that this new breakthrough method, that preserves as well as replaces the delicate stem cells could, in the future, allow easier testing of drugs on actual human tissues and eventually lead to custom printed organs created from a patients own cells. Custom organs, such as trachea and bladder, made from scaffolds seeded with stem cells, have successfully been implanted in to patients over the last few years, but it is still an emerging technology. 

The company, Modern Meadow, is working on the printing of raw animal meet for human consumption as well as bio-engineered leather to reduce the environmental impact and meet projections for global demand. Quotes on their webpage such as “Up to 20% of leather is wasted in manufacturing” and “It takes over 50 gallons of water and 75 sq ft of land to make 1 burger (Capper et. Al, 2011) show some of the sustainable advantages to synthesizing meat and leather.

Humble and ubiquitous bacteria could not only help us digest that bio-engineered meat, but might also be used to build the houses we live in and create the clothes on our backs. A discovery in the sands of Dubai by architect Ginger Dosier could lead to building bricks that are no longer baked at a high temperature to cure them, which requires a lot of energy. Instead using microbial-induced calcite precipitation (MICP), sand in a mold is bound together by bacteria and a series of chemical reactions, forming bricks. With some further experimentation to make the bricks harder, this could very well be the way building materials are made in the future.

Fashion designer Suzanne Lee is experimenting with making clothing out of the cellulose mat created by bacteria, yeasts and other microorganisms during a typical brewing of kombucha tea. The basic ingredients to grow this are, sugar, growth bath, living organisms, the right temperature and a week or so of fermentation. The bacteria create very fine strands of cellulose which all stick together and float to the top of the liquid, creating a slimy, rubbery mat on the surface. This mat can then be taken out, dried and sewn into clothing. There are some issues with it being very absorptive so it is not a commercially viable option at present, but she has an interesting TED talk that is worth viewing for more details.

Future Impact

As a colleague pointed out, so many other things in our daily lives have been revolutionized digitally.  This includes photos, videos, music, maps, money, newspapers, and magazines.   Naturally, other physical objects are next. Along with this revelation comes the inevitability of new methods, regulations, expectations, and technologies to enable the new ways of sharing, using, and capitalizing on this digitization. The success and cornering of the digital music and app market by Apple’s iTunes comes to mind, as does Kodak’s fatal decision to not enter the digital camera market. This revolution is another Darwinian one, where the adage “adapt or die” may very well continue to hold true.

So what could this mean for the future of retail? Will consumers share products online and print them at home, or purchase CAD files from retailers to print down the street at a local 3D printer? Maybe they will share patterns to grow their own clothes. There are already several websites to share 3D object files such as Thingverse, GrabCAD’s library, and more.  Or perhaps manufacturing will become so high-tech that it replaces the ability to sew fashionable clothes at home. Only time will tell, but some of the ideas behind modern additive manufacturing methods explored in this piece will indeed revolutionize our daily lives in the not too distant future.

The world of 3D printing is on the cusp of going mainstream in 2013 for making toys and small objects at home and design prototyping.  The next revolution is the idea of 3D printed items affected by the 4^th dimension, time. This idea has been coined “4D” by Skylar Tibbits of MIT’s department of Architecture.  In this latest progression, a printed object reacts to a catalyst and- voila! It then self-folds or forms itself into a predetermined shape.

In the first couple of 4D prototypes that have been created, 3D forms are printed using a combination of material types, one or more of which is reactive in water. When the forms are submerged in water, the materials react and cause the form to fold into a shape.  Cotton, with its absorptive and hydrophilic property, is an interesting fiber to think about in this 4D context when water is used as a catalyst for shape change.

Currently standard 3D printers use polymers or metals (with laser sintering technology) as their building blocks. However, in the medical industry the capability to digitally print organs or skin grafts is a proven technology. On the forefront of medical 3D printing, cells can be printed in layers to build up an organ or layers of skin. Printed “meat” has even been proposed by the Modern Meadow’s group as a more ecological and less resource intensive way to produce animal meat for human consumption. Scaffolds can also be 3D printed to create a structure that can be “seeded” with stem or other cells to grow into the desired form or structure – a biological version of 4D.

The engineering of a self-building polymer form starts with the design of the object in a 3D computer aided design (CAD) software file, whose layers and pieces must then be married to the materials in the inkjets of a 3D printer. Tibbit’s is reportedly working with Autodesk to further develop software to design items to be printed in “4D”. Currently, desktop 3D printers are available for the under $2000.00 USD from companies and organizations such as, Makerbot, Reprap, Bits from Bytes, and 3D Systems along with many others. Author Kerry King wrote an introduction to the world of 3D printing in a previous Cotton’s Revolutions Technology blog which can be found here: http://www.cottonsrevolutions.org/applications/blog/Technology?Month=2&Year=2012

Smartphone apps such as 123D allow users to capture and transmit a 3D image of an object to be printed without any prior CAD software experience needed making this technology available to the masses. Other companies such as Stratasys are catering to the design and industrial markets, pushing the limits of materials, and enabling the possibility of 4D. 

Can you imagine furniture that “builds” itself after being printed. The manufacturer could send it flat packed and upon receipt the customer could “self assemble” it by spraying it with a garden hose or put it under the sprinkler while the lawn is being watered. Watch out Ikea! What about downloading a file and 3D printing a garment that shrinks or folds itself into a design? What if by using your personal 3D body scan or avatar the file self adjusted to your specific measurements before printing?

Many “thinkers” out there are dreaming of a day when their clothes can be digitally printed with a few clicks and a print button, which is becoming more of a reality as more flexible polymers are used. These are not the most comfortable materials to wear in thick layers next to our skin, but are pretty neat looking on a runway.

Looking into the future, how will this 3D printing affect the cotton industry? Some might say that we’ll all start wearing synthetics that can be easily extruded by an ink jet. That is indeed where the story begins, but I don’t think that is where it ends.  Perhaps yarn can be substituted for ink as is the case in 3D full garment knitting machines and made more accessible to the general public. Or maybe the technology will favor a non-woven approach next. There are many non-woven materials that incorporate cotton due to its many desirable properties and creating a mesh or matrix is certainly within the realm of current printing technology. 

However, I think that to truly become a revolution for the entire apparel industry, advancements must be made to create “on demand” yarns just as the 3D print heads can create different layers and thicknesses of materials one after the other or by mixing materials together. This is by no means an easy or straightforward task. Traditionally textiles made of both natural and synthetic materials have been given better hand and other properties through both mechanical and chemical processing methods – something that current ink jet print heads do not support. For synthetics, extrusion techniques, shapes and chemistry have also been essential to affecting the final yarn properties. Incorporating this type of processing into a print head is in itself a design challenge, never mind constructing the yarn into a desirable fabric simultaneously.  

This revolution, as well as continuing along the path that 3D printers have forged in making advanced technology more accessible to the masses, will truly bring change to the cotton industry and the world. So, get to work mad textile scientists and engineers; I want to print some fabulous clothes from my desktop in the next decade or sooner!

The next post will focus on Additive Manufacturing and how it’s revolutionizing the cotton and apparel industries.

Here are some interesting links

Skylar Tibbits talks 4D:http://www.ted.com/talks/skylar_tibbits_can_we_make_things_that_make_themselves.html

An early stage design concept for on-demand clothes: http://jhharris.prosite.com/104313/973830/work/design-for-2050-clothing-printer

The Cubify store has some interesting 3D printed items available: http://cubify.com/store/creation.aspx?reference=AA8wgScGs54M

The cotton industry and marketplace, while always close to its agricultural roots, is continually influenced and advanced by technology. One of the hot topics of the last few years has been supply chain tracking and verification. Brands, retailers and manufacturers alike want to make sure they are getting what they’ve paid for, both in quality and social compliance. The final consumer is also becoming more and more aware of social issues and interested in where their products are coming from. This post looks at some of the technology that is enabling greater traceability for all concerned parties throughout global supply chains. 

Tracking starts in the field

Today’s high tech cotton harvesters, such as John Deere’s 7760 Cotton Picker, have the ability to RFID tag each cotton module they make. As a module is created, it logs the GPS data to identify the specific area of the field that the module came from and sensors and software work in tandem to capture information such as load weight and lint yield. This data is stored for future use and analysis by the farmer allowing him or her to see which areas are the most productive. The RFID tagging makes modules easy to identify in the next processing step at the local cotton gin, preventing confusion as to what farmer or field they came from.  This RFID data can easily be shared with the cotton gin for future identification, which is especially useful if the cotton is not processed immediately.

http://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_US/products/equipment/cotton_harvesting/7760_cotton_picker/7760_cotton_picker.page

U.S. Government Tracing continues at the Cotton Gin

The USDA’s Permanent Bale Identification system is the first step in tagging and tracking all U.S. grown cotton. U.S. cotton bolls are mechanically picked and compressed into large rectangular or circular modules in the field. The modules are transported to a cotton gin where the seeds and most of the plant material are removed. The de-seeded cotton fiber is then compressed into bales of about 500 lbs. Each one is given a unique barcode and a 4 oz. sample is taken out of each side of every bale. The USDA’s testing labs look at every single bale sample and assign it a grade based on fiber (staple) length, strength, color, fineness and trash content using High Volume Instrument (HVI tm) testing.  This grade determines the price of the cotton on the open market. The grade information is available online for the owner of each bale through the USDA’s website. Buyers worldwide can have confidence in that each bale of U.S. grown cotton has been verified by the use of technology and the identification system.

Finding the Right Grade of Cotton

Cotton Incorporated’s EFS system includes software to find the right grades of cotton based on what is available using the USDA’s HVI bale data from across all of the states in the U.S. cotton belt. Aside from tracking available bales, their software technology also helps mills to determine the mix of cotton grades that will to produce a desired yarn type and quality. Software technology enables the utilization of cotton in the supply chain and improves the quality of goods that are produced from it.  

http://www.cottoninc.com/fiber/quality/Fiber-Management/

PCCA Offers Visibility From Farm to Fashion

Vertically integrated Plain’s Cotton Cooperative Association, or PCCA, headquartered in the buckle of the U.S. cotton belt, Lubbock, TX is one of the leaders at the forefront of cotton supply chain tracking. Within the past 3 years PCCA has developed their IT infrastructure and processes with the idea of tracking from ‘farm to fashion’. This program is an answer to consumers demanding more transparency to the origin of their food and fashion and retailers are starting to take notice. Through the use of software, barcodes and intelligent coding systems they are able to identify the fields that a pair of jeans sewn in their Guatemala factory originated from.

The process starts when a Co-op farmer’s cotton is first picked, ginned and baled. At the gin, each bale is given a unique USDA Permanent Bale Identification barcode that will be linked to the grade assigned to it through their testing offices. There are thousands of farmers in the co-op all growing different varieties of cotton. Each bale’s grade is dependent on many environmental factors from minerals in the soil and water, to sun and wind exposure. Bales from the same field could be different depending on which section of the field they were grown in.

In the textile mill, proprietary software with visibility to the bales currently in their warehouse determines the right combination of grades of bales needed to make the desired yarn. As these bales are put into the laydown line to spin into yarn their barcode information is captured and is traceable back to each yarn package that comes off of that run. The cotton in one package of yarn could have been grown in the fields of 100 or more farmers.

As the yarn is made into fabric, the tracking process is similar. The barcode of each yarn package, traceable back to the fields, is scanned and associated with the barcode on the fabric roll. In their manufacturing facility in Guatemala, or potentially in the facility of any of their fabric customers, the fabric roll number is associated in a database to the COR, or cut order, number. The COR number is then printed on the label inside the garment.

The final consumer can then track their denim garment by going to a specific PCCA and Retailer hosted website. They can also use a QR code on a hangtag to get to the site. When the site is accessed the fields where the cotton was grown for a garment are shown on a map.  Information about some of the specific farmers such as technology, environmental stewardship and more is also available if they’ve chosen to share it.  In the current environment of social compliance and instant information, PCCA’s traceability program gives them a “leg up” over the competition.

www.pcca.com - video “jeans on a journey” and “innovative solutions through technology”

Highlighting the Local Agriculture

On the east side of the U.S. cotton belt, Cotton of the Carolina’s is riding on the shirt tails of the local food and products movement by creating 100% ringspun cotton t-shirts, grown to cut and sewn all within a 750 mile radius. With only a few dedicated cotton farmers at present they don’t need anything further than a great website to show exactly where their shirts are grown and made.  However, as a small business they do a great job of harnessing the power of social media technology to get the word out about what they do and how they do it. In this day and age, of ubiquitous (and inexpensive) social media technology, taking advantage of its marketing power is good business sense and a great way to keep a very plugged in generation of customers aware of where their cotton comes from.

www.cottonofthecarolinas.com

RFID tagging gets smarter

International not-for-profit supply chain standards organization GS1’s EPC Global program has the goal of increasing visibility throughout global supply chains. According to their website, an EPC related RFID number can identify a product’s origin, dates of manufacture and include other detailed data as to its production path or methods. Their organization has created RFID product coding rules that enable everyone globally to speaking the same numeric language.

Each individual product or package can be tagged which allows EPC tags to be used for inventory tracking as well. Since an RFID tag is a small emitting device, items don’t have to be individually scanned like barcodes do. Being able to capture the items within a box with one fell swoop makes RFID efficient and more cost effective, as long as items are tagged correctly and the reader can read them.

Information related to individual tags, which all have unique ID’s, is stored in a secure database and accessible only by those companies who’ve invested in the program and agreed to its code of conduct. Participants can login and access this information, which is instantly visible, and now not solely dependent on signatures and pieces of paper.

In addition, GS1 also has a Global Traceability Standard which helps companies setup processes and methodologies to track raw material batches, quality audits and shipment data. So in theory, a bale of cotton could be the starting point of a line of RFID connections that continues to be tracked via RFID tags as it is made into yarn, fabric, dyed and finished, and cut and sewn into garments. Each time tag data is captured it would be sent to their secure database and stored for future reference.

 http://www.gs1.org/epcglobal

Conclusion

Through technology, tracking supply chain from fields of cotton fiber to a final product is becoming easier.  Manufacturers, retailers and their customers are demanding instantaneous access to the supply chains behind their products. Just as access to all kinds of information is unlocked daily by access to information and smartphone apps, knowing exactly where our products come from is part of the next data access revolution. 

For my previous post, I examined the origins of 3D to 2D pattern development and highlighted current capabilities of CAD systems in relation to upholstered furniture, transportation seating and interiors. I also touched on capabilities of software solutions for creation of 3D garments through virtual stitching of 2D patterns. However, what about development of patterns directly from 3D body models? This sounds like an intuitive strategy that would provide designers with greater ability to optimize fit for complex body regions such as the bust, waist/hip/seat/crotch, neckline and armhole. This is not a new idea. In fact, Jud Early, in the article, 2D vs 3D CAD (Techexchange, October, 2004) talks about early development efforts in the area of pattern unwrapping. He mentions the emergence of software solutions for virtual stitching of 2D patterns, but also focuses on 3D to 2D strategies, including software developed at [TC]² for the creation of sloper patterns from 3D body scan data.

While research priorities at [TC]² eventually lead the investigating team in other directions, early results showed that the ability to address garment ease and style features are among the challenges for technology development.  Furthermore, the ability to address garment fit in a manner that takes fabric properties into consideration including interactions between materials and the soft tissue of the body, contributes to the complex nature of the development task. Contacts at Lectra emphasize the importance of garment ease and fit as key ingredients of apparel development and point to the soft structure of the body is a differentiating factor as compared to working with a 3D model of a car seat or sofa. Vendors seem to agree 3D to 2D for apparel is, for lack of a better phrase, “it’s own animal”.

Steven McLendon (Excecutive Vice President, ExactFlat) summarizes the issues, saying that from a technology development standpoint, the CAD system must address the nuances of apparel for the solution to be viable. If successful, the potential benefits are tremendous and there’s an opportunity for the 3D to 2D pattern flattening process to become a primary tool for product developers in regard to assuring garment fit in reference to a target customer. The technology could be particularly valuable for product areas including plus sizes where linear grading is less than optimal. In this context the developer would use the 3D avatar to accurately determine how the pattern must respond as the body grows through the size range.

The State-of-the-Art for Apparel

What does 3D to 2D for apparel look like today? As mentioned in my last post, in the context of 3D pattern draping, vendors such as Optitex are supporting the ability to virtually stitch 2D patterns and edit the draped garments in the 3D window using basic drawing tools. Lines drawn in the 3D interface appear as vectors in the 2D pattern window. This feature is intended to allow a more interactive way for the CAD specialist to modify pattern pieces in response to style and fit issues. Lectra notes that Modaris V7 will provide patternmakers and designers with more interactive capabilities in the 3D pattern draping area to help streamline the 2D to 3D to 2D process. The primary aim is to enable efficient use of the software for making pattern corrections and controlling fit, volume and style elements without having to wait on a physical prototype for review.

In terms of pattern development using 3D as the starting point, Optitex users are able to define pattern regions on an avatar in the 3D window. The regions are then extracted to the 2D window for additional development and once optimized can be virtually stitched and draped on the reference avatar – sort of a 3D to 2D to 3D process. This capability is demonstrated in the video clip, “OptiTex Flattening on Adam model”. Within the system, CAD specialists have access to standard avatars that can be morphed for the desired body dimensions and shape. The system also supports importing avatars (3D body models) from a variety of sources including body scan data. While the system does not provide an opportunity to define pattern shapes that incorporate ease, the strategy does enhance the user’s ability to determine pattern lines in close reference to body contours. This is of particular value for defining features such as necklines and contour seaming on form fitting garments. Where garment ease is required, software users might try enlarging the avatar dimensions as a strategy for building ease into the extracted pattern.

ExactFlat has also explored 3D pattern flattening for apparel. The process is illustrated on the company’s website in reference to a protective vest. One of the notable features is the ability to visualize where a seam should be located in reference to three dimensional body shape. The clip also illustrates integration with production information using the SolidWorks platform. From a modeling standpoint, it’s possible to view the avatar and garment from multiple angles to see how the garment and body relate. For product categories such as pants, the ability to visualize and adjust the position of the 3D pattern in relation to curvature of seat and crotch could be a very powerful tool for optimizing garment fit in reference to body shape. Ultimately in order to meet the needs of the apparel user, these systems will require intelligent methods for addressing garment ease taking into account material properties, such as fabric stretch and drape. Systems will also need to address key aspects of “good fit” including pattern balance (alignment of the pattern shape in reference to fabric grain).

Work in Progress

In summary, 3D to 2D for apparel is still a work in progress. Given advances in 3D modeling and simulation of material properties there’s no doubt that we will continue to see development of 3D CAD solutions for apparel. Moreover, the success of these systems in automotive, marine, footwear, and aerospace suggests that technology has advanced to the point that input from expert apparel practitioners will benefit development for apparel applications. This advancement will require patternmakers to think in a new way and to become fluent with 3D tools. On that note, the creation of an intuitive software interface should be a key goal for developers working in this area. In the long run, investment in 3D technology and skills could result in significant pay-off for product developers and consumers.    

For most of us, the pattern development process for sewn products brings to mind images of patternmakers drafting flat patterns on paper or via standard 2D CAD tools. These strategies rely on accurate communication of design intent as well as expertise and experience with the flat pattern process in order to achieve the design goal in a time efficient manner. In some cases, numerous pattern iterations are executed prior to the production phase with the aim of meeting design and garment fit expectations as well as parameters associated with cost and manufacturability.  In previous posts, I have mentioned the introduction of 3D software technology for pattern draping. These solutions enable a 2D to 3D patternmaking scenario that is intended to enhance the process by allowing the designer to visualize a sewn product prior to the creation of a physical sample. Available technologies typically allow the user to annotate the virtual sample with notes or requests for pattern corrections and share the 3D model or 2D screen capture with a development or manufacturing partner. In some cases the designer can even draw in the 3D environment, creating guidelines or pattern lines that appear in the 2D window to aid a correction or the creation of a style variation. An obvious extension of the movement between 2D and 3D is the ability to design original products in three dimensions and then unwrap or flatten the 3D shape to create a 2 dimensional pattern for the cut and sew process. Is this possible with today’s technology? The simple answer is yes and this post takes a look at the current state of the art in 3D to 2D.

Origins of 3D to 2D

The idea of 3D to 2D is not new. In fact, the concept has been practiced by apparel patternmakers for generations via the draping method. For this method, the designer or patternmaker works with a length of fabric and a dress form, wrapping, draping and pinning the textile in place on the form to achieve a “just right” appearance. While some patternmakers simply enjoy the more intuitive nature of the draping process, others primarily use the method to execute and communicate difficult to draft styles or details. This is especially true for elements that have a “drapey” quality and/or for which the two dimensional shape is difficult to envision in the flat. Although a low-tech procedure, manual pattern draping is at the heart of the 3D to 2D concept in that a three dimensional shape is defined and then flattened to establish the two dimensional pattern for the cut and sew process.

Applications for Furniture and Transportation

How is the 3D to 2D process automated through the use of CAD? To a certain degree the answer depends on the kind of product we’re talking about. For example, a sofa may be constructed in layers, beginning with a wood frame that provides structure and support. The frame is typically covered with foam to add cushioning and the composite structure is upholstered in fabrics and leather to create the finished product. At the front end of the process, a 3D model of the object provides the foundation for development of the upholstery patterns and this model may be used to delineate the various product layers. For solutions such as Lectra’s DesignConcept Furniture software the user can create the 3D model and define the perimeter lines of the upholstery pattern by drawing along the model’s surface. At this stage it’s possible to assign fabric textures to the regions and digitally simulate the finished product. It’s also possible to visualize stress areas based on fabric properties. Once the perimeter lines for the upholstery pattern have been defined in 3D, the various shapes are selected and algorithms are used to flatten the shapes. Similar strategies are used for automotive, marine and aerospace seating and interiors. Technology providers for these markets include ExactFlat, Optitex and Vistagy (part of Siemens) in addition to Lectra. Some of these solutions, require the user to create the 3D model in another software package and import the model for development of upholstery/surface covering patterns (e.g. Optitex and Lectra DesignConcept Auto). Thus, the ability to import a variety of 3D file formats is beneficial for this strategy.  

From a software user’s perspective, a primary goal is faster proto-typing which includes the ability to produce 2D patterns that accurately “fit” the 3D model with little or no additional adjustment to pattern dimensions, contours and match points once flattened. Steven McLendon from ExactFlat refers to this as the ability to produce “production worthy” patterns and he suggests that this capability points to the need for intelligent algorithms that incorporate factors such as material properties and specifically, an understanding of the  X,Y deformation of fabric as it stretches over a three dimensional surface and the relationship between the fabric and the volume being covered. Visualization of strain and sag points is a noted feature of more industrial solutions. As an example, Vistagy offers the use of a color coded map that simulates the degree of tension or wrinkling for a given surface region. Seams can be repositioned in response and the user is able to review the updated map. ExactFlat and Lectra also support color coded visualization of material stress points and Lectra illustrates the optimization of seam curves with respect to fabric ease in a promotional video for the software.

Industrialization

Industrialization of patterns is another important feature emphasized by technology vendors. ExactFlat has developed a software solution that works in conjunction with the SolidWorks 3D Design System. The company leverages the SolidWorks parametric platform and 3D rendering capabilities, as well as the system’s ability to integrate information regarding manufacturing job, methods, and costing data from a variety of systems including ERP solutions. The technology supports relational data, providing links between the 3D model and the flattened pattern as well as links with product engineering, documentation, and production information (e.g. BOM’s and operations based costing, pattern nesting and cutting, and manufacturing/shop plans and drawings). From a practical perspective, this means that a change to the model or pattern triggers updates to associated information, such as information located in markers or documentation files.

These capabilities are available to varying degrees for solutions from other vendors as well. As an example, Lectra notes that users of the latest version of DesignConcept Auto are able to create photo-realistic renderings and work with 3D models, defining surface regions for creation of the pattern. In the 2D module of the software suite, sources at Lectra state that users can create BOMs and technical documentation and prepare patterns for cutting including functions such as automated nesting. Additionally, the system enables sharing of information with enterprise systems to further inform development and planning. In summary, the ability to streamline development and ensure accuracy and consistency of product information across various parts of the process is the primary goal of industrialization capabilities for these solutions.

3D to 2D for Apparel?

Assuming the technologies live up to their descriptions, it’s clear that adopting a pattern flattening strategy for furniture and/or transportation applications has merit. Is this statement also true for apparel? Check back soon as my next post examines this area, shedding light on some of the specific challenges for technology development.  

In my last post, I provided a quick primer on the key attributes of cotton nonwovens and the technologies that are used to manufacture these fabrics. In regard to advancement of nonwoven technology solutions, let me start by saying a few words about synthetic fibers as a means of setting the scene for cotton. The thermoplastic properties of synthetic fibers have enabled the development of continuous processing methods for nonwoven production that integrate fiber extrusion/spinning, web formation and fiber/web bonding.  In the case of spunbond production, synthetic fiber filaments can be extruded and randomly laid on a belt to create the fiber web that is then bonded via a calendaring process. Rupp provides a more detailed technical description of the spunbond strategy. He also describes melt-blowing as a procedure that enables the production of ultra-fine filament nonwovens (see part 2 of Rupp’s series: Spunbond & Meltblown Nonwovens, Textile World, May/June 2008). According to Rupp, these two processes can be combined and can also be used in combination with other processes such as lamination for the production of a range of technical textile materials. Garland explains further, stating that meltblowing may be used to generate small fibers/barrier properties and the process is often combined with spunbonding to provide structure for the textile. According to Garland, one of the more significant advancements in the synthetic fibers area is the trend toward producing bi-component fibers at the spunbond (fiber extrusion/spinning) stage. Following formation of the fiber web, hydroentangling technology is used to jet water at high pressure. This process effectively separates the components and entangles the fibers, thus enabling the production of micro-fiber based constructions.

Unlike the spunbond or melt blown processes often used for formation of synthetic fiber webs, manufacturing of nonwovens from cotton require preparation stages including fiber cleaning and carding – processes that are more typical of woven or knitted textile manufacturing. With this in mind, what do preliminary processing steps mean for the production of nonwoven cotton fabrics? In regard to technology adoption within the nonwovens sector, Brian Condon, Research Leader in the Nonwovens area at the ARS indicates that the industry has gone through a modern expansion phase that has centered on the use of synthetic fibers rather than natural fibers. As a result nonwoven production facilities are typically not equipped with technology for fiber cleaning as would be characteristic of a woven or knitted textile production sequence for cotton. This presents a barrier to entry with regard to advancing the use of cotton for nonwoven applications.

Research Initiatives

With that in mind the nonwovens group within the Agricultural Research Service have prioritized processing strategies as part of their research effort. Initial investigations in the processing area are showing that carded webs can be produced from mechanically cleaned virgin/greige (unbleached) cotton and that the carded webs from this source are free of plant and field contamination. Unbleached cotton can also be processed more quickly at the carding stage. On the down side, the scouring and bleaching stage supports the removal of the cotton fibers natural waxes – a process that results in hydrophilic properties (i.e. absorbency). Thus, how can hydrophilic properties be obtained through the use of virgin/greige cotton? This has been an area of investigation for the research team and research is showing that the hydroentangling procedure can be optimized to encourage wax removal during the entangling stage. As with the textile coloration process, time, temperature and pressure are key variables that can be manipulated to achieve this end and Condon indicates that increasing the total amount of hydraulic energy is the over-riding strategy.

During our discussion, Condon also highlighted that a sound knowledge base exists within the textile industry around fiber, yarn and fabric properties and associated production methods for knitting and weaving of cotton fabrics. However, nonwovens appear to be a bit of a different animal. In that regard, the ARS investigates the relationships between fiber quality, processing strategies and resulting textile characteristics. This investigation suggests that the nonwovens process for cotton may be more forgiving with respect to fiber quality and that factors such as growing conditions may have less impact on fabric characteristics for nonwovens. Instead the hydroentangling action can be a key factor in imparting attributes like strength and Condon indicates that this, “…has to do with how cotton fibrillates when you hit it with high pressure water.”

The ARS is also engaged in the development of chemistry and processing strategies that may enhance the performance capabilities of cotton nonwovens. Anti-bacterial and medical applications are among the targets in this area. As an example, Condon mentioned that the group is conducting research into the use of anti-bacterial agents with cotton wipes. This presents a challenge in that anti-bacterial agents have a high affinity for cotton. As a result, the agent won’t transfer from the wet wipe to the surface being disinfected during use. Also on the chemistry front, the group is looking at the use of non-scoured and bleached cotton for “infection free” products such as medical gowns, sheets and bandages. 

Ultimately, advancing both the knowledge base and the science around nonwoven production for cottons is central to the mission of this research group. For those readers that are interested in learning more about this effort, there’s a nice summary on the Cotton Incorporated website. The group is also able to provide technical services and engage in collaborative research. On the topic of technical development and education, the Nonwovens Institute at North Carolina State University also seeks to advance the knowledge base around cotton nonwovens. In fact, according to Garland, the Institute is now offering a specialized product development course that provides access to the NWI’s pilot and testing facilities to enable students to gain an applied understanding of uses and benefits of cotton in nonwovens applications. Since a lot of research into nonwovens at the University level focuses on synthetic fiber based products and strategies, this course opens the door for students to think creatively about cotton.

Q&A

Let me closeout the current post with a few questions:

-       Do you see the nonwovens area as a growth opportunity for cotton?

-       Do you see growth opportunities in specific product areas?

-       What are the barriers for expansion as you see it?

Send us your thoughts and your questions. Also, check back soon for updated content on the reference area. In the meantime, take a look at some of the embedded links from my last few technology posts.

Part I: Fabric Properties and Manufacturing Strategies 

In a previous post I indicated that I would be taking a look at advancements in nonwoven technology in reference to cotton. Although nonwoven manufacturing is not my specific area of technology expertise, I have been aware of expansion within the nonwovens sector and the use of nonwoven textiles for technical and consumer applications. With that in mind, I’ve been curious to learn about the role of cotton in this expansion and to gain an understanding of the growth opportunities and relevant technology solutions.

Looking back a few years, Jürg Rupp highlighted the growing importance of cotton to the nonwovens area in the article, “Nonwovens Made of Cotton”, (Textile World, January/February 2009). Specifically, he points to the importance of cotton and the value the fiber offers for product areas such as protective clothing, medical textiles, hygiene, environmental protection and home textiles. Rupp describes these applications as “human-centered” and in this article he provides a fairly extensive list for cotton that includes diapers and incontinence products, feminine hygiene products, wipes for consumer, industrial and medical use, pads for applications such as cosmetic removal and garment shields for nursing mothers, disposable medical garments and linens, as well as medical drapes, wraps, packs, sponges and dressings.  Many of these product types are also noted as typical application areas by Cotton Incorporated  and the Agricultural Research Service (Southern Regional Research Center). The ARS also points to additional uses for cotton including nonwoven batting for furniture and mattresses and for acoustic insulation for automobiles.

Given current applications, what does cotton bring to the table with respect to product performance?  How are nonwoven fabrics manufactured from cotton? Are there specific fiber processing requirements? What are the key technology advancements and who are the associated vendors of technology for manufacturing nonwovens from cotton? My first post on the topic, takes a look at how cotton contributes to product performance and also highlights the primary manufacturing strategies for this nonwovens sector.

The Cotton Advantage

As a starting point, it’s important to understand that nonwoven textiles are derived from a web of fibers that are entangled and/or bonded to create the textile structure. According to Janet O’Regan, Director of Strategic Initiatives at Cotton Incorporated, cotton fibers offer an advantage for many applications in terms of physical and tactile properties. In a processed state, cotton fibers are highly absorbent (hydrophilic) and have a high wet modulus - in other words, the fibers are stronger wet than dry. These characteristics are beneficial for applications such as wipes, diapers and pads. In the case of wipes O’Regan emphasizes that it’s important for the nonwoven sheet to be absorbent, but also to stay intact in that it does not tear apart during use or when removed from the storage container or package. Cotton also provides softness – a characteristic that is highly valued for personal care products. From a sustainability standpoint, many of the products mentioned are disposable (limited use) products. On that note, cotton also offers a fiber stock that is both renewable and biodegradable.

In contrast to processed cotton, O’Regan points out that raw cotton is naturally oleophilic and hydrophobic. As such, nonwoven textiles developed from raw cotton can be useful for tasks such as oil spill cleanup as evidenced by the restoration efforts undertaken in the Gulf of Mexico (see The Role of Cotton in the Deepwater Horizon Clean-up). In this context the textile absorbs the oil, but not the sea water. As the oil is absorbed, the textile remains on the surface of the water which enables ease of retrieval. Cotton has insulating properties as well and nonwoven fiber bats are now being manufactured from recycled cotton apparel (e.g. jeans) for building insulation. According to various sources including O’Regan, this kind of insulation is being promoted as a strategy that is consistent with obtaining LEEDS certification (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design).  

Nonwoven Processing Methods and Technology Solutions

On the technology front, nonwoven textiles can be constructed via a selection of established processing methods for web formation and web bonding. Technologies including spunbonding and meltblowing are used in the formation of synthetic fiber webs, whereas carding can be used to generate webs of staple fibers including cotton. Thermobonding, chemical bonding, needle punching and hydroentangling refer to the mechanism for engaging bonding between the fibers. Of these methods, needle punching and hydroentangling are the processes primarily used for nonwoven production using cotton fiber.

According to a selection of sources, needle punching can be traced back to the earliest production of nonwoven textiles (1800’s) and there is an interesting description of the origins and adoption of this strategy on the Foster Needle website. The process uses barbed needles that penetrate a fiber web and cause catching and entangling of the fibers as the needles move in and out. The Foster Needle website provides insight into needle features and under the technical papers heading, visitors can learn more about needle design in reference to fabric characteristics and properties. It should be noted that Foster Needle is now part of Groz-Beckert a key manufacturer of needles for various applications within the textile and apparel industry. For readers that are interested in learning more about production speeds, typical fabric widths and key technology vendors in the needle punching area, Rupp’s five part series on nonwovens provides a helpful overview of a variety of the primary nonwoven production strategies (see part four: Needlepunched Nonwovens Textile World, May/June 2008).

In contrast to the early introduction of needlepunching, hydroentangling is a more recently developed strategy. As the name suggests, these systems use high pressure water jets to cause entangling among fibers in the web.  During our conversation, O’Regan noted that the introduction of hydroentangling technology has been a key development for cotton in reference to the production of nonwoven textiles. One of the reasons for this is that the process maintains much of the fiber’s natural properties since hydroentangling does not require the use of added chemistry or the presence of melted fiber to engage bonding between fibers in the web.

In terms of production capabilities, O’Regan indicates that the average width for nonwoven fabrics is about 3 meters and currently available equipment may be run at rates in the hundreds of meters per minute. Thus the technology is best suited to volume production. For the U.S. industry O’Regan emphasizes that production of nonwovens is a capital intensive business and requires quite highly skilled labor at the manufacturing level. This presents a domestic manufacturing opportunity that is further enhanced by the domestic presence of manufacturers in the consumer products and automotive areas. In other words, domestic manufacturers of nonwoven textiles have domestic customers for their products which opens the door for just-in-time or on-demand manufacturing scenarios.

From a technology standpoint, Genevieve Garland, Director of Partnership & Innovation at the Nonwovens Institute at NCSU indicates that over recent years there has been some consolidation among key technology vendors in the industry. She points to Trützschler Nonwovens (this company purchased Erko and Fleissner) and Andritz Perfojet SAS (acquired Reiter Perfojet) as technology leaders in the hydroentangling technology area. Garland’s colleague, Dr. Benham Pourdeyhimi, Executive Director of the Institute, provides a summary of nonwoven technology showcased at last year’s ITMA show in Barcelona in the article, ITMA Technology: Nonwovens (Textile World, January/February 2012). This is a valuable source for gaining an understanding of the market and current technology trends within the broader nonwovens sector.

Technology and Aesthetics

Before closing, let me say just a few words about technology in reference to texture and pattern for nonwovens. Although for the product types previously mentioned, it might seem like performance properties should out rank fabric appearance on the order of importance scale, aesthetics can be manipulated to enhance the feel of the textile and suggest performance attributes. In the case of the hydroentangling process, Garland notes that surface patterning can be created by laying the fiber web on a patterned belt. The jetting action pushes the fibers through holes in the belt to create the textured fabric. She also notes that some technology solutions use a drum with a patterned sleeve rather than a patterned belt. In this instance, the fiber web moves from the hydroentangling bed to the drum where the jetting action continues, causing the creation of the pattern/texture.

Next time, I’ll be taking a look at advancements in the nonwovens area and will highlight current research initiatives in the nonwovens area for cotton.

It’s not news that consumption of water and energy as part of textile dyeing and finishing processes is high on the list of challenges our industry faces in terms of sustainable manufacturing practices. In the context of cotton, recent technology development efforts have centered on the advancement of coloration chemistry coupled with updates in equipment design to support higher dye yield, lower consumption of salt and auxiliary chemistry, lower processing temperatures, and improved monitoring and/or reduction of processing stages. We are also hearing experts in the field emphasize the importance of data collection at the mill level as a means of zoning in on wasteful practices and as a near term strategy for improving environmental footprint, the need for global adoption of best available processing methods in the dyeing and finishing area. Though incremental advancements and continuous improvement are highly important, there is need for simultaneous investigation of waterless methods for textile coloration. With that in mind, what are the technologies to watch in this area? Do some of these strategies show potential for coloration of cotton? This post takes a look at these questions.

Supercritical Carbon Dioxide

A recent blog post by Dr. Christian Schumacher (StepChange Innovations http://blog.stepchange-innovations.com/category/textile/) attributes the development of dyeing with supercritical carbon dioxide to research conducted by universities in Germany as early as 25 years ago. More recently the concept has received attention in reference to Nike’s February announcement of a strategic partnership with DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V., a developer of equipment for dyeing with supercritical carbon dioxide. The technology has primarily been discussed in reference to coloration of synthetic fibers, polyester specifically. In a supercritical state (above 74 bar and 31°C) carbon dioxide has properties of both a liquid and a gas and acts as a carrier that enables dye to deeply penetrate the polyester fiber. Some of the noted benefits of this technology include waterless processing, elimination of discharge and recycling of the supercritical CO_2. However, various sources suggest that the capital investment is significant and according to Schumacher the process is not currently viable for coloration of natural fibers, although ongoing development of reactive disperse dyes may be an enabler at some point in the future. Schumacher provides additional technical insight into the opportunities and obstacles for dyeing with sc-CO₂ and I encourage interested readers to explore this post.  In a previous post Schumacher highlights research into color effects created through fiber structure – an interesting concept, although once again a technology that seems to be specific to synthetic fibers.

Plasma

Various sources refer to plasma treatment as a waterless alternative to more conventional surface treatments for textiles. Plasma is described as “…an ionized gas consisting of highly energetic electrons and positive ions” (Peter J. Hauser, Plasma Treatment of Textiles: Changing Fiber Surfaces, Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management).  According to Mather Technology Solutions, “…gas plasmas were introduced in the 1960’s”, although development of a commercial scale plasma treatment strategy is recent. Mather identifies three primary effects that can be achieved by gas plasma treatment: etching or cleaning via change in surface and wetting properties, surface chemical modification through introduction of chemical groups to the surface of the fabric, and plasma polymerization or controlled vapor deposition of thin films on the fabric surface.  Hauser notes some specific applications for plasma treatments including “…to enhance dyeing rates of polymers, to improve colorfastness and wash resistance of fabrics, to improve adhesion of coatings, and to modify the wettability of fibers and fabrics”.  Though I have not come across sources that describe plasma treatment in reference to color application, during a recent conversation with Dr. Hauser, he notes that the concept may be worthy of exploration, although such a development is probably distant.

Sublimation and Transfer Printing

Although sublimation technology is not new, the profile of sublimation strategies have been on the rise in response to tremendous growth in application within the polyester sportswear and soft signage markets. The process is sometimes described as a waterless coloration technology in that heat is applied via press, heated roll or calender to sublime the disperse dyes and drive color into the interior of the fiber. The ongoing development and adoption of digital printing strategies further enhances the “waterless” story in that color can be delivered on-demand using a process color set where droplets of ink are combined on the surface of the substrate to create the color effect – no colorant mixing, screen engraving or cleaning required.

Sublimation inks can be printed on paper first and transferred to the substrate or applied directly to the textile – a growing strategy within the digital print market. The color and imagery can be applied for continuous coverage across the length and width of the fabric or strategically applied in “marker form” to roll goods according to the shape of the product pieces. The dyes can also be transferred to cut fabric pieces. For the marker or cut piece scenarios the application of color to waste areas of the fabric is eliminated, further reducing the overall amount of chemistry consumed. Some readers may have come across AirDye® in the context of waterless dyeing and I recently spoke with contacts at ColorRep about this solution. The system is essentially a two sided approach to sublimation that makes use of specially formulated inks in combination with a pulse heater to control the penetration of color into the fibers. The chemistry can be applied to the transfer paper digitally or via screen method and the process enables printing of both solid hues and multi-colored/print effects or combinations there of by fabric side.

To my knowledge, sublimation technology is almost exclusively a polyester specific solution and this is true for AirDye® as well. I occasionally hear the terms “sublimation” and “transfer” used in reference to cotton though. It may be possible to coat cotton with a polymer to enable sublimation or to blend cotton and polyester in such a way as to offer a predominantly polyester surface that accepts the transferred color. It should also be noted that while application of sublimation chemistry can involve the transfer procedure, not all transfer prints are sublimation prints. For 100% cotton, it’s possible to transfer an image from a release paper and bond the chemistry (or foil) to the surface of the cotton through a heat activated binder system or similar. Unlike sublimation prints, these kinds of prints sit on or coat the surface of the fabric and typically have a heavier fabric hand. With that in mind, they are primarily suited to t-shirt printing or for small areas of decoration. In comparison, sublimation prints offer a soft hand and greater potential for printing larger fields of color as exemplified by the AirDye® process. As I understand it, there has been some development of transfer methods in combination with reactive dyes, but I am not aware of widespread investigation of this strategy.  

Digital Delivery of Color  

One of my primary reasons for discussing sublimation is to point to the advancement of digital delivery strategies for color as a result of market opportunity for sublimation prints. There are numerous reasons to target digital technology as an area for development in reference to waterless coloration. In the context of printing, digital methods demonstrate production flexibility in terms of color, run length and consumer demand. Today’s technology supports targeted application of color via a comparatively clean, closed process that essentially mixes color on-the-fly. Though reactive and acid dye colorants for digital require wet processing at the fabric preparation and finishing stage, less color may be used overall thereby minimizing post fixation washing for these ink types. The digital application process also eliminates screen cleaning and a large degree of colorant waste associated with spot color strategies. Furthermore, recently introduced technologies are demonstrating significant advancements in areas of print speed and reliability.

So what’s the down side? From a technical standpoint, research has largely focused on the development of systems (hardware, software and ink chemistry) that support reliable delivery of surface pattern effects, broad color capabilities on a range of fabric constructions and fiber types, moderate to high resolution imaging, production print rates and a reasonable cost structure. There has been less emphasis on printing of solid shades. Instead, the underlying inkjet systems must accurately reproduce color and detail, while balancing ink volume with print precision for a given fabric construction and fiber type. From an aesthetic perspective this means that color penetration to the interior and reverse of the cloth is typically variable as compared to the top surface of the fabric. In other words, there is normally a definite fabric face for digitally printed goods – a feature that is less appealing for solid shades and may not be acceptable to all consumers for all products.

Several strategies have been introduced in an attempt to address variation in color penetration. For example, a few vendors have introduced “pre-wetting” solutions and associated software to provide more even color penetration for light vs. dark shades and at least one vendor has explored a double-sided printing strategy. In the carpet printing sector valve jet technology has been used to maximize ink volume at the expense of print resolution. For this application, lower resolution printing is not an issue given the pile nature of the substrate and the need for color to penetrate into the interior regions of the carpet pile.

Another challenge for digital delivery in the context of waterless coloration is the often noted variability in inkjet printhead performance that may occur over the course of a printing process and over the lifetime of the printhead. This feature can cause banding and shading issues across the width and length of a printed fabric and from batch to batch. Unfortunately, these undesirable features are most noticeable when printing solid fields of color, though the current generation of machines are making use of more robust, production oriented printhead systems designed to minimize or eliminate quality issues.

Though currently available inkjet technologies have been used to simulate the surface appearance of woven fabrics including jacquards (see the recently published paper, Consumer Perception Comparisons of Jacquard Woven and Printed Fabrics for Home Furnishings, AATCC Review, July/August 2012) and yarn dyed shirting, given the issues outlined, inkjet technology may not be part of a future solution for printing of solid shades. As demonstrated in the carpet printing area, valve-jet, spray-jet or other digitally driven devices may offer a more viable development path for a waterless coloration system given color and quality requirements for solid hues. 

Ultimately, equipment and chemistry development must go hand-in-hand. On that note, further research must be undertaken to advance the state of technology in regard to colorant chemistries that support dry processing. The advancement of nano-scale pigment technologies with broad color capabilities and alternate or novel chemistry types is part of the discussion. Although currently available pigment based chemistries for digital offer relatively good fabric hand and waterless processing at the fixation stage, the color space remains limited as compared to dye-based inks for digital. Thus, ongoing investment in research and development in this area may help to advance the science of colorants for digital delivery.

Side Notes

I encourage readers to take a look at/revisit the summary of coloration technologies and discussions arising from ITMA, Barcelona - specifically my posts of Oct. 5^th and Nov.4^th, 2011.  Also refer to the feature article, “Staying Alive: Making Textiles Sustainable” (November/December 2011, AATCC Review) for additional insights into advancements in the textile coloration area.

Continuing on with technology highlights from the Texprocess Americas show that took place in late April, the current post provides insights into the state of equipment for spreading, cutting and sewing and some notes on software for product costing. I’m assisted in this effort by my colleague, Doug Adams who has a wealth of experience in operational aspects of apparel manufacturing. Doug walked the show floor documenting the most important features of the equipment and hardware systems being promoted. I will do my best to summarize the key information from this show report. Note that I’ve highlighted company names for ease of scanning this post in reference to the various technology areas.

Sewing Systems

In regard to sewing technology, companies including Collier Equipment Co., Henderson Sewing Machine Co. and The FOX Company were representing technologies from a variety of equipment developers and in some cases were offering both new and used equipment as well as parts and supplies. Machinery taking center stage on the sewing front reflected the current domestic focus on manufacturing for specialty applications within the military, automotive and furniture sectors. Equipment design services and the ability to handle specialty materials such as strapping, webbing and rope were among the notable offerings.

In terms of new capabilities, the introduction of carbon fiber clamps as a replacement for metal or Plexiglas systems shown in the Henderson booth was an advancement that caught Doug’s attention. Owner, Frank Henderson indicates that the carbon fiber design significantly improves “…the load and unload features of the sewing machines by reducing the weight of the clamp and reducing the machine stress.”  The company also offers robotic components – a technology area once felt to be too costly for the sewing area, but that now promote improvements in speed and efficiency while reducing construction errors and waste. Henderson points to automation tools such as bobbin changers and thread sensors that support equipment uptime as well. A list of automation components can be found on the company’s website and this list includes systems related to the application of trim items such as hook and loop and webbing. It should be emphasized that strong development and automation capabilities were also notable features of Collier’s offering.

In the area of material handling and work flow, Eton Systems was present and demonstrating an updated version the company’s unit production system. For readers that are unfamiliar with Eton’s technology, this is a modular/customizable material handling system that moves cut parts through the sewing floor via an overhead conveyor strategy and provides re-routing and tracking capabilities on an individual unit basis (meaning all the parts for a single garment or product travel together). The latest version is highly flexible and is capable of handling more weight resulting in a higher garment carrying capacity. Eton indicates that the system also has fewer working parts than previous versions – a feature that correlates to lower need for equipment servicing.

America’s 21^st Inc. was also exhibiting and specializes in the design and implementation of lean, continuous flow work cells. Some of the highlights from this booth include “Trouble Light Systems” which provide a visual method of lights and horns to signal when there is machine trouble or work is needed. The company was also promoting equipment such as “Production Pace Timers” for goal setting and self monitoring of progress by the sewing team. Also in this realm, CGS (Computer Generated Solutions) was promoting the Leadtec real-time production control system that addresses areas such as operator motivation, automatic payroll, product line balancing, real time excess cost inquiries, operator skill history, piece rate performance, actual cost, and work-in-process (WIP) inventory control. In summary the system is intended to promote productivity on the manufacturing floor and aid the identification of production issues as they arise.

Spreading and Cutting

Several companies were present and exhibiting solutions for spreading and cutting. Details are outlined below by vendor and though there doesn’t appear to be a single trend in terms of the state of technology in the cutting area, there is continued emphasis on system flexibility in terms of material handling and production volume, job management, efficiency, quality, specialized capabilities (e.g. parts identification) and ease of maintenance. 

• DEMA, the US Representative for YIN Cutting and Spreading Systems, was promoting the HY Series of cutters that includes both high and low ply systems. These cutters had conveyor feed systems or static feed systems with multiple length options.
• Eastman Machine Company was also showing automated cutting machines with static and conveyor systems. The company was promoting the newly engineered “Raptor” system which incorporates reciprocating knife technology engineered for precision cutting up to 3 inches of compressed material. Simplified maintenance and quality cutting through the stack are among the benefits of the Raptor solution.
• Among the systems being promoted by Gerber Technology the GERBERcutter Z1 technology is designed for single and low ply cutting. This new system promotes energy efficiency, comprehensive reporting capabilities and job management. This is a modular solution that can be outfitted with inkjet printing capabilities for parts identification, a parts identification/re-cutting station and the ContourVision scan to cut system. The ContourVision technology scans the incoming fabric for perimeter lines and supports accurate cutting of engineered prints and similar. On an interesting note, Gerber cutters were not physically present on the show floor. Instead, the company opted for an entirely digital display this time around.  
• Lectra Systems Inc. was promoting the FX and MX cutters - part of the Vector series of cutting technologies. The FX offers lower volume cutting with a maximum ply height of 1 inch while the MX is a higher volume solution with a higher cutting height capability that makes use of knife intelligence. The knife intelligence compensates for any knife deflection that might occur during the cutting procedure to ensure an accurate, quality cut through the plies.
• Pathfinder supplies automated and lower cost cutting systems for applications including single, low and high ply. The systems offer features such as off load display, offload printer, marking tools, airbrush, barcode scanning of work orders, inkjet printing, pattern matching software, overhead camera for alignment and machine transfer capabilities.

It should be noted that for those that did not read my previous post, I encourage you to have a look at this content to get a more complete picture of emerging “smart cutting” capabilities with insights into cloud based marker generation and cut-order-planning/optimization.

Product Costing

Before moving away from my overview of manufacturing technologies exhibited at Texprocess, let me say just a few words about software for product costing. I spent a few minutes with contacts in the GSD booth to gain an understanding of the company’s Quest solution. Aimed at a product development user, the Quest software is a higher level solution than the company’s Enterprise product that is intended for use in the product engineering environment. Quest is powered by a library of style features that are associated with operations and corresponding standard allowed minutes (SAMS) for those operations. By selecting product features for a style (e.g. two piece collar), the user can build the cost for a product. This information can be used to assess how a product is shaping up in reference to target cost. The results can be brought into a PLM solution to inform product development efforts and get a sense of how a new product is positioning. On the sourcing front, the user can examine cost in reference to key performance indicators (KPI’s) for manufacturing locations as part of consideration for where to place a program. Readers interested in costing solutions should also be sure to check out Methods Workshop’s Quick TruCost solution that has also been designed to support predictive costing activities.    

In summary…

I think it’s fair to say that although we are not seeing ground breaking developments in the area of equipment for cut and sew, we continue to see improvements to systems that on a case by case basis support leaner, more sustainable manufacturing operations. 3D solutions continue to be a key area of technology development within the product development area for sewn products. On that note, look for me to revisit the concept of 3D pattern making in the near future.

During the last quarter of 2011 I took a look at textile technologies showcased at the ITMA exhibition held in Barcelona in late September. I’m moving a little further up the supply chain for my current post, providing technology highlights from the Texprocess Americas show that took place in Atlanta in late April. Messe Frankfurt and SPESA (Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas) joined forces to co-produce the event and the show co-located with Techtextil North America providing attendees with insight into the development and production cycle for technical textiles as well as sewn product development and manufacturing technologies.  

The Challenge of Garment Fit

As part of the education program for Texprocess I moderated the session “Product Development Technology”. This seminar was developed to emphasize emerging technology solutions that have relevance to areas including creative development of product concepts, materials and color, optimization of garment fit and sizing, management of vendor/buyer relationships via 3D product development, and the integration of CAD and 3D body scanning with an eye toward opportunities for product personalization.  The session included participation from key vendors including Alvanon, Gerber Technology, Human Solutions, Lectra, OptiTex and Tukatech with each vendor focusing on one of the key areas identified. Following a series of short presentations, we opened the floor for Q & A and it was apparent from the discussion that companies see development of garment fit in reference to their target customer as a primary challenge within the product development area. In the context of global and multi-vendor sourcing access to body measurement and shape information, effective communication of product specifications and fit intent, fit assessment, and communication of corrections are areas that continue to merit attention in regard to technology development and application of existing solutions and strategies. For individual companies these challenges inevitably connect with the broader discussions regarding ownership of the pattern development process for a given business scenario.  

From a technology perspective 3D body scanning and virtual dressing technologies are being offered by vendors to enhance capabilities within the product development and CAD area in regard to garment fit and sizing. The introduction of depth sensor technology for 3D body scanning is the most recent development in this area and systems were being demonstrated on the show floor by a couple of vendors. Depth sensor technology first gained attention in regard to the Xbox Kinect for sensing motion in the context of gaming. Now these sensors are being incorporated into 3D body scanning systems and are expected to enable greater access to scanning technology for technical product development, size customization, sizing surveys, custom/personal avatar creation, and size prediction and virtual fashion at retail.

Under this umbrella, [TC]² demonstrated the KX-16 multi-sensor system suited to many of the applications just mentioned. The company also showed a single sensor strategy aimed at size prediction. [TC]² emphasizes the ability to supply 3D data (avatars) and/or body measurement information for use with numerous commercially available CAD solutions. As an example, OptiTex was demonstrating the ability to import [TC]² avatars into the company’s 3D product development module with full support for skin textures. Within the context of 3D product development, avatars from scans serve as virtual fit models or provide accurate 3D representations of individual consumers to aid the development of made to measure clothing. OptiTex highlights growing simulation, rendering and animation capabilities for the company’s 3D runway suite of software and points to improved representation of hardware features such as zippers. It should be noted that the ability to import avatars from [TC]² body scans is also supported by Lectra for the Modaris 3D Fit software. Also on the show floor, Tukatech + Styku demonstrated the Smart Fitting Room, offering the scanning solution as one piece of a larger group of solutions that includes pattern making and related CAD software and services.

A number of other technology trends were noted beyond the 3D category in regard to product development capabilities. These trends relate to the range of solutions offered by individual technology vendors, the capabilities offered by those solutions and the growth of cloud based software strategies.

Comprehensive capabilities and cloud strategies

Vendors including Gerber Technology, Human Solutions, Lectra, Optitex and Tukatech provide comprehensive capabilities in regard to pattern making, grading and marking. A growing number of vendors are enhancing this foundation through the offer of additional solutions that support activities such as concept and fabric development, product lifecycle management (PLM), plotting and fabric cutting, and cut order planning and management. Given the global nature of the sewn products industry and the various stages of a given product’s lifecycle, support for integration between CAD, PLM and ERP, transfer of data between software modules and accurate conversion for exchange between vendor solutions is ongoing.

Some of the more interesting advancements in this area are around marker generation and cut order management where vendors are offering cloud based solutions that support activities such as file conversion, marker generation and authorized marker sharing. In the post “Apps, Cloud Computing and Software as a Service” (January 2^nd, 2012), I highlighted a few of these providers. At Texprocess, I spent some time in the Human Solutions booth learning more about the Assyst Automarker and Autocost services. Automarker, which has been available for a number of years, allows the user to create and optimize markers on demand and communicate the marker orders to manufacturing partners. Users can order markers based on the number of units by size for a given style. Profiles can be created that control piece arrangement in reference to attributes such as shade zones and tolerances. Profiles can also be developed based on capabilities of a specific cutting facility to control features such as marker length in reference to cutting table dimension. Autocost enables users to determine material requirements and associated cost of a given marker scenario. As part of the capabilities users are able to see the number of units per size for an order and create an arrangement for distributing the sizes over the number of markers being generated. Material reports and spreading instructions can be provided to manufacturers electronically. Step spreading is a new feature in the software that is aimed at providing the ability to view results and optimize spreading of fabric where there is variation in ply height along the length of the cutting table in reference to orders and markers.

Also in the realm of cloud computing, Lectra was promoting a “Collaborative Design Platform”.for the Kaledo software solutions for design. Although not specifically labeled a cloud strategy it is in essence a private cloud scenario in that the platform enables company’s to centralize the design software and associated data for ease of administration, access and sharing, while still maintaining the security of the company’s design assets. This technology strategy is in keeping with comments I made in the January 2^nd post noting the development of private or hybrid cloud solutions as a way for companies to ensure data security while still benefitting from the ease of maintenance and quick access to software upgrades characteristic of the cloud model.

Functionality and Productivity

Software providers continue to emphasize functionality and productivity at the pattern design level with an emphasis on the ability to rapidly generate pieces, styles or components. For example, Gerber Technology’s latest release of the AccuMark® system offers new capabilities for quick creation of pattern elements. The create sleeve tool allows the user to designate measurements such as sleeve length, front and back cap length and cap height in order to create the initial piece shape. The user can easily modify this shape according to eye and dynamically view the resulting measurements. Darts can be created and manipulated in a similar manner.

Lectra’s Modaris ExpertPro system continues to be promoted as a system that offers benefits in regard to productivity through features such as piece dependency for which modification of a single piece initiates modification of all dependent or “linked” pieces. Links can be extended to measurement tables to enable updates across a size range. Also on the productivity front, Lectra announced a partnership with WGSN just prior to Texprocess. As part of the partnership Lectra and WGSN have agreed to develop and provide trend based “starter packs” that include inspiration boards, fabric designs, colorways and palettes, pattern blocks and 3D prototypes that product developers can use as a basis for “on trend” technical and creative development.

Another interesting development is the continued exploration of 3D pattern unwrapping capabilities. 3D to 2D systems are not new to the sewn products industry and have been used in the context of upholstery, hard goods and for apparel to a lesser degree (e.g. ExactFlat, Lectra, and OptiTex). I touched on these capabilities in the post “Fashion Goes Virtual” (June 6^th, 2011). Going forward this is an area to watch as the industry further explores the concept in relation to fashion products and clothing. Ultimately, development of pattern shapes from 3D models offers what could be described as an intelligent strategy that allows the designer to rapidly translate their three dimensional vision into a shape that can be cut from the two dimensional fabric plane. In partnership with avatars from 3D body scanning there is the potential for optimization and personalization of garment fit for specific body shapes. I may have more to say about this concept over the coming months.

There’s more to come…

These are just a few notes from the show. Next time I’ll provide a few highlights related to product costing and hardware solutions for cutting and sewing.