Technology

In my most recent blog post, I posed a question regarding the evolution of CAD technologies in reference to shortened time frames for product development cycles.  For the soft goods industry, the term CAD or Computer Aided Design refers to a broad range of software tools that can be used to support various stages of the design process.  Within the context of this article, I am addressing applications including textile design, patternmaking, pattern grading, and marker development.  Basic functionality for these applications has been widely available from CAD solution providers for years.  Given this background, more recent technology upgrades have centered on some of the following areas to aid efficiency. 

Enhancements to existing CAD functions to improve user experience and support task automation: 

Expert or smart patternmaking systems have been available for a number of years and continue to be advanced.  These software tools automate or eliminate repetitive tasks by offering the ability to program macros that act as a record of a series of actions undertaken by the software user.  A macro can be created for editing a pattern piece or style.  Once created, the macro can be called upon for ease of editing additional patterns.  In some instances, expert systems also allow the user to designate links or parent/child relationships between patterns.  In this context, a change to one pattern piece is automatically executed for linked pieces and/or styles.  Envision a scenario where the pattern maker needs to adjust a selection of cotton t-shirts by a given length for the current season.  By employing macros or links, this action can be executed more efficiently.  These capabilities are sometimes offered as an alterations strategy for a made-to-measure product as well.  Macros have also been included within marker programs. 

With respect to development of size ranges, software exists for the creation of grading zones or masks.  Grading direction and increment is first defined for the mask. The mask can then be applied to a pattern piece and points falling within the boundaries of the mask grade accordingly.  Once defined, the zone can be copied to other pattern pieces or other areas of the same pattern piece and edited if needed.  An added benefit of this strategy is the ability to clearly visualize how the pattern is growing through the size range.  It can also be used to help ensure consistency of grading strategy through a series of styles.  

Integration between CAD and PLM to support accuracy and ease of transitioning data through various stages of product development: 

Within the pattern and marker making modules, measurement charts and reports containing information about piece area and marker length can be automatically generated.  Once generated, a chart or report can be exported to Excel or PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) software for rapid generation of technical product specifications and BOMs (Bill Of Materials).  In some cases, the design team can attach color specifications, patterns, markers and even 3D images to the technical package being developed within a PLM solution.  Where vendors offer software for concept development and line planning, initial style approval can trigger transition of relevant and approved product information into the product data system for further development. Down the line, information regarding products that have been approved for manufacturing can transition to ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) systems where there is greater focus on financials, logistics, compliance and overall management of the product through the supply chain and retail setting.

Integration of color specification and management tools for informed development and accurate communication of color information: 

Within the textile design environment accurate specification and communication of color have been of focus for technology development.  From a practical perspective this means that software users have the ability to work with color that is defined in a device independent way.  The designer can capture the spectral data from a physical color sample or standard using a color measurement instrument (spectrophotometer).  Alternatively, the designer can identify a color using numerical models.  A numerical model (sometimes referred to as a color space) describes features such as Hue, Saturation, Lightness (HSL); Hue, Saturation and Value (HSV); or Lightness and Chroma (LAB).  In many instances, designers are able to develop and/or draw from color palette libraries that are associated with color standards such as Pantone.  Information for colors selected can then be communicated to manufacturing partners as part of the lab dip or sampling process.  Samples submitted to the retailer or brand owner can then be evaluated for accuracy in reference to the color standard. 

At the vendor level CAD technology providers have partnered with vendors of color measurement and management solutions to build capabilities into the textile CAD system.  Color standards providers have partnered with dye manufacturers so that color formulation information for a standard can be provided to the dye house along with the spectral information.  The ultimate goal of this integration is to support informed decision making early in the process and reduce the number of iterations required within the lab dip/textile sampling stage. 

Expansion of basic product offerings to support multiple phases and functions within the development process: 

Many CAD vendors now offer a suite of products or modules that can be purchased individually or as a group.  These products can include various combinations of programs including software for concept development, technical sketching, line planning, textile design, patternmaking/grading/marking, product visualization and centralization of technical product data. By providing a total solution the technology provider can better support manual and automatic movement of product data from one software module to the next.  In today’s market, most vendors of apparel CAD strive to meet the needs of their customers by offering some level of PLM.  Depending on the history and technologies of the provider, a PLM system may offer greater abilities with respect to aesthetic design, technical design and/or transition to manufacturing.

Development of 3D visualization tools in support of improved communication between development and manufacturing partners: 

Most vendors of CAD for apparel design currently offer a solution for 3D visualization of the garment on an avatar (digital human).  Although there are multiple solution providers for 3D visualization, the general strategy for creating the 3D garment is quite similar from vendor to vendor.  This strategy involves virtually stitching the 2D pattern and draping the pattern on the avatar.  In most cases, the avatar can be customized in terms of body dimension or shape to better represent the fit model or target customer.  The capabilities of such systems will be discussed in greater detail in future blog posts.  For now, it’s important to mention that the purpose of the visualization tool is to support early assessment of garment style and fit at the design or pattern making level.  These solutions are also offered to support communication between development partners with respect to design intent and/or development issues.  The general theme being, “A picture is worth a thousand words” and in the emerging CAD environment the picture is in 3D.

Technology, innovation and sustainability are common buzz words in the language of industry.  Within the textile, apparel and broader sewn product sectors, the themes can be applied to a variety of stages within the lifecycle of a product.  Over the coming months, this technology blog will serve as a window into some of the most important technological advancements for the industry pertaining to the product development and manufacturing stages of cotton products.  These developments will be discussed within the context of cycle time reduction, product lifecycle management, environmental impact, lean business practices, innovation in process and product, and enriched consumer experience.  The following segment provides a glimpse of some of the technologies that will be examined: 

Advances in CAD and PLM

CAD solutions for fabric development, pattern making, pattern grading, and marker creation have been available to the industry for some time.  How are these technologies evolving to meet the needs of industry within compressed product development cycles?  What is the role of Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) technology and how can software solutions support leaner practices within the product development phase?  How do software solutions support improved linkage to manufacturing?  To answer these questions, future articles will examine emerging trends in software capabilities with an eye toward tools that support informed development, automation of repetitive tasks, rapid development of product specifications and centralization of data for accurate and clear communication between product development and manufacturing partners.  These tools will also be discussed in the context of waste reduction as one part of an overall strategy for implementation of more sustainable methods by our industry. 

3D Body Scanning as a Tool for Garment Fit

3D body scanning technology has been commercially available for over 10 years, though not widely adopted at the retail level. A selection of technology systems have been developed for apparel applications during this time.  The most widely deployed solutions make use of laser or white light technology.  These technologies have offered a competitive cost structure combined with a level of measurement accuracy acceptable for a range of apparel applications. Future posts will describe some of the challenges for adoption and will discuss the current state of 3D body scanning technology as a tool that supports garment fit and sizing strategies.  The relevance of 3D body scanning for made-to-measure, size and style prediction and body shape and size analysis will be highlighted as part of this discussion.  Articles will also address the development of low cost body scanning technologies in support of broad deployment for consumers and the relationship between 3D data and virtual dressing applications. 

Virtual Dressing

Emerging technologies for virtual dressing will be examined more closely in future posts with an eye toward application at both the product development and consumer level.  Within the product development cycle, 3D representations of garments can be employed to support visualization and refinement of style and fit prior to the execution of a physical sample.  In this context, it may be possible for the apparel designer to make more informed choices early in the development cycle.  Once a physical sample has been constructed, technology can be used for remote review of garment style and fit on a dress form or fit model.  In addition to supporting improved decision making early in the process, these visualization technologies are also intended to support improved communication between development partners.  Within the development context, designers and manufacturers can share imagery and highlight issues, revisions and/or updates with respect to the style or fit of a garment.  A picture is worth a thousand words – a statement that rings particularly true in instances where language and time zones provide additional barriers to communication.   

At the retail level, virtual fashion technologies can be integrated into bricks and mortar, e-commerce, and mobile pathways in support of garment style assessment by the consumer. While some of these technologies are true 3D solutions, others provide more of a 2D experience.  It’s also true that the current crop of virtual fashion technologies offer varying degrees of personalization with respect to the consumer experience.  In some cases, the technology allows the consumer to interact with apparel and accessory items in conjunction with a generic or customizable model.  In other cases, the user can generate a truly personal 3D model that can be dressed with 3D clothing items.  These virtual fashion systems are being applied to enrich the consumer’s shopping experience in terms of style assessment.  In some cases, it may be possible to link to garment fit information as well.  Virtual fashion technologies that effectively support the consumer’s understanding of style and/or fit in relation to their body type may provide additional value within the e-commerce environment where product returns are a significant issue. 

Advances in Digital Textile Printing and Coloration

Until recently digital textile printing has primarily been viewed as a technology that supports visualization of print on fabric within the concept development and product sampling phases for textile products.  Application of the technology at the production level has been primarily applied to one-of-a-kind, high-end and/or niche product areas.  However, advances in printer hardware and ink chemistry are opening the door for the use of inkjet technology within the manufacturing phase as well.  Future articles will describe the current state of digital printing technology with an emphasis on those systems of relevance for cotton textiles.  Trends in technology development and application including those that may support development of digital systems for waterless coloration will be discussed.  Readers will also learn more about technology developments in areas related to CAD and single-ply cutting that support integration of digital printing within the sewn product manufacturing process.  

Direct-to-Garment Digital Printing

The emergence of direct-to-garment or DTG technology has been an area to take note of within the digital textile printing arena.  These systems support the ability to print on assembled garments and have been designed for use with pigment based colorants.  The cotton t-shirt market has been the primary target for this technology and a number of technology providers offer solutions for this application.  Some equipment can be characterized as lower cost ‘Epson based systems’.  These printers make use of Epson desktop machines that have been integrated with garment platens to hold and/or position the t-shirt for ink delivery.  Other printing systems have been built from the ‘ground up’ and make use of more industrial type printhead technologies.  These technology groups are being adopted to support small run and niche market capabilities as well as customization scenarios for the end consumer.  Future posts will offer details on the range of technologies available and will highlight capabilities in terms of color range, image quality, fabric and fiber type, color fastness, and development of higher speed print solutions. 

Look to follow-on posts for additional information and discussion on the highlighted topics.  Also visit the Technology Resource Library within this site for links to additional materials of relevance to these and other technology related topics.