Technology

Gaining insight into technology solutions and strategies for more sustainable textile processing was a primary goal with respect to the technology research I conducted at ITMA. In keeping with this initiative, I provided a summary of relevant discussions arising from the Sustainability Roundtable and the Textile Chemistry and Dyestuff Forum for my most recent post. The various themes highlighted during these sessions informed my observations and discussions as I moved through the exhibition halls. In terms of the transition to more sustainable solutions in the textile coloration area, one of the most significant technology advancements to occur over recent years has been the emergence of production solutions that have been developed to support greater efficiency and flexibility for textile printing. As I surveyed the exhibition area, I quickly discovered that Hall 7 was the place to be for those wishing to review the latest hardware solutions in this technology category.

I think it’s fair to say that the digital textile printing exhibits attracted considerable attention from trade show attendees. Clearly digital printing has been the focal area with respect to research and development in the textile printing field. I found it interesting that screen based technologies were represented in a very minimal way. I interpret this as a sign that the digital method is being positioned for significant growth in terms of overall share of the textile printing market. Printer hardware vendors including A -Tex, Atexco, d·gen, DGI, Durst, EFI Vutek, Ftex, Ichinose, Konica Minolta, Kornit, La Meccanica, Mimaki, Mutoh, MS Printing Solutions, Reggiani, Robustelli, Roland, Stork, Xennia and Zimmer were all in attendance and exhibiting their latest offerings. Some of the highlights with respect to the cotton supply chain are as follows:

Atexco (Hangzhou Honghua Digital) demonstrated the company’s VEGA 6000 printer. This machine is among a newer class of industrial equipment that incorporates Kyocera printhead technology. The machine can be operated in a 4 or 8 color mode and is available for purchase with 4, 8 or 16 print heads and for a selection of print widths. This company also exhibited technology for carpet printing.

Durst introduced the Kappa 180 printer to the textile audience. This machine is engineered with Durst’s QuadroZ printhead technology that incorporates a printhead plate by Ricoh and electronics by Durst. The machine is engineered for 8 color printing with 4 printheads per color and supports print rates of between 230 and 606 m²/hr.

Ichinose (Toshin Kogyo Co.) highlighted the 2030Pro printer engineered with 24 Seiko printheads and capable of production up to 160 m²/hr.

Konica Minolta launched the Nassenger PRO 1000 which currently supports acid and reactive dye printing at rates of between 420 and 1000 m²/hr based on print mode. This machine was complimented by the Nassenger PRO 60 that can be used for short-run production or as a proofer for the higher speed technology. The Pro 60 is also being marketed by DGI and branded as the FD Pro I. DGI is the system integrator for this model. Both the PRO 1000 and the PRO 60 are engineered for printing with 9 colors and the Nassenger PRO 1000 incorporates Konica Minolta’s new KM1024 printhead technology. In addition to reactive and acid dye sets for the Nassenger PRO series, Konica Minolta is also looking to introduce disperse dye inks.

Kornit Digital exhibited a prototype machine branded “allegro” designed for wide format production printing of pigments. This machine features integrated application of a pretreatment containing the pigment binder. It currently supports a 7 color arrangement that includes light cyan, light magenta and light black. Kornit is looking at Q2/Q3 2012 for official launch of the technology.

La Meccanica showed the QualiJet KS8 first exhibited at FESPA, Hamburg earlier in the year. La Meccanica is among the list of vendors developing hardware around Kyocera’s printhead technology. This particular model features a scalable platform starting with 8 printheads and offers the possibility to upgrade this number for greater productivity.

MS Printing Solutions exhibited the JP6 and JPK printers that also incorporate printhead technology from Kyocera. At the higher end, the JPK machine can print up to 370 linear meters per hour. MS was also showcasing a video in large format demonstrating the operation of the continuous, single pass LaRio technology now installed at Tintseta Ink in Como for printing of silk. The ITMA Daily News reported that the machine is operating in the range of 20 to 30 linear meters a minute at Tintseta and that a strategic alliance between MS and Stork is in place to sell and support the machine within Stork’s global contact base. The ability to operate the LaRio system with reactive dyes and with Huntsman’s Universal ink should be noted for printing of cotton substrates. The Universal color set supports printing on fiber types typically compatible with reactive or acid dyes and supports substrate flexibility with a single color set.

Reggiani introduced an approach to sublimation transfer printing using the ReNOIR digital printer and are undertaking modifications to the machine to support imaging on transfer paper. Partnerships with Sensient for supply of sublimation ink and Cham Paper Group for supply of transfer paper are part of the development and marketing strategy for this approach. In terms of relevance to the cotton supply chain it should be noted that this machine model has been operational with reactive dyes for some time and word has it that Reggiani has something in the order of 60 installations worldwide. Additional highlights from Reggiani include marketing of the newer ReNOIR – Compact machine which is described as a lower cost, easy to operate solution as compared to the higher end ReNOIR system. 

Robustelli exhibited the EVO printer, the latest offering from the Monna Lisa series. The machine incorporates 32 printheads that support print rates of up to 675 m²/hr. This vendor describes the printhead technology from Epson as exclusive to Robustelli and notes that for this series of equipment the alignment procedure is eliminated upon replacement of a printhead. The system is designed for use with the Genesta series of reactive, acid and disperse inks.

Stork featured the Sphene digital print technology at ITMA. The high speed system (up to 555 m²/hr) was previously introduced at FESPA Hamburg and features printhead technology from Kyocera. The ITMA demonstration centered on printing of nylon/lycra swimwear fabric with acid dyes. For the cotton supply chain it should be noted that the Nebula brand of reactive dye inks are also available for the Sphene technology. During my visit to the booth, Stork also highlighted availability of digital print inks for the new MS LaRio printer. Stork’s offerings for the LaRio include the Quasar ReAcid inks, an eight color set that like Huntsman’s Universal colorants, supports flexibility of fiber type. It should be noted that in addition to digital print solutions, Stork was also promoting updated technology for the rotary screen environment. The Pegasus EVO rotary printer supports improvements in print quality due to the advanced squeegee system and also enables greater efficiency via a combination of squeegee and systems for paste recovery, improved drying and intelligent waste water recycling. Stork also introduced two new rotary screens designed to reduce moiré (125/RR) and enable high resolution and increased transfer of print paste to the substrate during the printing action (195/19% NovaScreen).

Xennia did not exhibit equipment, but featured the newly branded Xennia Osiris machine in response to the company’s recent acquisition of assets from Osiris, the original developer of the equipment which was formerly branded Isis. They also featured the Emerald machine that falls into the coming soon category. The Emerald is engineered with a novel diagonal multi-pass arrangement mentioned in a previous post and supports production in the range of 600 m²/hr.

Zimmer demonstrated an updated version of the Colaris digital print system for printing with reactive, acid or disperse inks. Various machine widths are available and for 1.8 m goods being printed with an 8 color arrangement, the equipment is capable of print rates between 100 and 732 m²/hr depending on quality settings. The machine can be integrated with a selection of in-line processing units for stages including fabric pretreatment. Special entry units, drying, steaming and washing configurations can be combined to support printing of products such as cotton towels or nylon pile fabrics (e.g. floor coverings, velvet upholstery and automotive textiles). Zimmer also introduced a digital print solution for imaging on narrow fabrics such as polyester waistbands. This technology was not shown. However information and samples were available for review and the solution appears to have application for branding or short run/customization of print designs and colors in the narrow format (e.g. waistbands on cotton underwear). One of the unique features of the technology is the ability to print both sides of the substrate. For a waistband this means that the inside surface of the band can be printed with a different color or design than the outside surface.  

Among the other companies that I listed as exhibitors in the digital print area, a number offer systems of relevance to imaging on cotton textiles. The fact that I have not highlighted specific systems is not an indication of the value of the respective solutions for given markets. These systems have either been featured at previous exhibitions, are primarily marketed for dye sublimation and/or are mid-level technologies in terms of print rate. With that in mind, companies looking to explore the full range of digital print solutions for textiles should take note of the entire list.

Before moving on to other technology areas, let me share a few additional highlights in regard to ink chemistry for digital printing. My visit with Dystar revealed that the company is in the process of refreshing efforts in the inkjet chemistry area following a period of transition to new ownership. Jaysynth, provider for the DIGITEX brand of ink highlighted the addition of textile pigments to their reactive, acid and disperse dye offering and Everlight Chemical Industrial Corporation introduced reactive and acid dye colorants for the digital textile environment. J Teck was also exhibiting, although advancements from this company focused on printing of fiber types other than cotton.

For my next post I will shift gears to focus on denim coloration and finishing with a special emphasis on sustainability, hues and effects.

Part I

The International Exhibition of Textile Machinery (ITMA) opened its doors to the textile manufacturing world on September 22^nd and so began an eight day run for an event that has historically served as the premier European show for textile manufacturing equipment and related technology solutions. ITMA is on a 4 year cycle - the most recent occurrence having taken place in Barcelona and the following event scheduled for Milan, 2015. Although the European show attracts a large audience, ITMA Asia taking place in Shanghai in June 2012 will enable a technology update for relevant markets mid-way through the European cycle. From a scale perspective, the Barcelona show featured seven halls of exhibits, which attracted an audience of supply chain stakeholders from around the globe. Given the significance of this event from a technology perspective, my next few posts will focus on solutions exhibited within the trade show, as well as technologies and issues explored during corresponding educational forums. 

The Sustainability Roundtable

I arrived at the Fira de Barcelona Gran Via on the opening day just in time to attend the Sustainability Roundtable, which was part of a complimentary program offered by the show’s organizers.  The roundtable was facilitated by the Textile Exchange and included participation from representatives of Dystar, Invista, Patagonia, Pratihba Syntex and Tonello SRL. The session underlined the importance of collaboration among supply chain participants for achieving industry goals in the sustainability area. The value of collaboration with competitors from various sectors of the industry was highlighted with respect to a comprehensive approach to sustainability that addresses materials, products, processes and people. 

Round table participants, pointed to the rising importance of product quality and durability as an attribute of a more sustainable supply chain and the need for supply chain participants to factor environmental impact into discussions of product cost. Disposable and fast fashion were highlighted as contrary to the development of a more sustainable industry. Participants also noted that developing more sustainable methods and practices requires investment in knowledge, process and technology and that a company undertaking a sustainability initiative needs to focus on the future in regard to return on investment as ROI is not always immediate. Panel participants emphasized that companies must be persistent and seek out continual improvement in the sustainability area. There must also be a focus on measurement to provide a base line or starting point and to monitor improvements in terms of process and goals.  As one participant stated, “What gets measured, gets worked on”.

From my perspective the session also underlined the growing importance of technology innovation with respect to improving textile production methods and support for adoption of new processes and technologies that prove effective. Support for education and implementation in regard to known strategies for more sustainable textile production and product manufacturing is also central to improving the status quo. One attendee highlighted the fact that the textile and apparel industry must not lose sight of social compliance as a key part of a comprehensive plan for a sustainable supply chain, though this attribute was not at the center of the roundtable discussion.

Textile Chemistry and Dyestuff Forum

The sustainability theme was further emphasized for me during the Textile Chemistry and Dyestuff Forum that took place as two half-day sessions held on September 25^th and 26^th.  During the forum participants discussed the significant environmental, resource and product safety issues facing the wet processing area of the textile supply chain. Transfer of knowledge surrounding textile chemistry and processing methods from historic centers of textile production to current global manufacturing settings was raised as a key issue by participants.

There was also discussion of the need for research and development of more environmentally friendly chemistries and methods of processing cotton fabrics given the high volumes of water and effluent associated with the coloration of cotton. During the forum a representative of Huntsman Textile Effects described their newly introduced Avitere SE colorants and indicated that the chemistry supports high levels of dye exhaustion as compared to traditional reactive dyes. As a result the chemistry requires smaller volumes of water for unfixed dye removal, as well as less steam and time consumed during processing. The speaker indicated that this results in 40% savings in terms of processing costs. Later in the program company representatives described applications for Fong’s new TEC series of high temperature dyeing equipment that used in conjunction with chemistry advancements from Dystar (Remazol RR and Sera ECO WASH) support significant reduction in resource consumption during the dyeing process.  Dystar points to the washing stage as the greatest consumer of energy and water during the reactive dyeing procedure and indicates that the chemistries noted support high fixation and ease of removal of hydrolyzed dye molecules. Associated brochure material indicates a 50% reduction in consumption of time, water and energy for coloration of medium reactive shades on cotton knit using the combined technologies from Dystar and Fong’s. 

In the context of the discussion of cotton coloration, one participant suggested that the industry needs to think “outside the box” to obtain significant rather than incremental improvement for this fiber type. Catonization of cotton was highlighted as a potential direction for further exploration to address the use of large volumes of water and salt typical of reactive dyeing. Others pointed to the idea that key improvements to the current state could be obtained by implementation of known processing and monitoring methods that are inconsistently applied or absent within the global manufacturing context. Participants pointed to recycling of dyehouse water and waste treatment methods as obvious areas for attention.

The forum also facilitated discussion regarding potential drivers for improvement. Participants familiar with dyeing and finishing activities in developing regions pointed to the ongoing consolidation of operations into textile clusters in countries including China and India. Clusters are designed to enable sharing of facilities and resources among resident companies for processing stages such as waste water treatment.  Participants also pointed to increasingly stringent governmental requirements with respect to environmental impact. Where companies have not met regional standards, shut down of individual operations or those of entire business clusters have been noted. Various strategies for monitoring and compliance of production methods and/or end products were further highlighted during a complimentary session that described similarities and differences among a selection of industry standards including Oeko-Tex, EU Flower, Blue Sign and GOTS.

Next time…

Look for me to post again next week when I will provide further insight into some of the technologies exhibited at the show. I’ll start by addressing a number of advancements in the digital textile printing area and stay tuned for additional highlights from the coloration, weaving, knitting and CAD areas as October marches on.