Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

The Organic Trade Association (OTA) developed voluntary organic standards for fiber processing (post-harvest handling, processing, recordkeeping and labeling) in 2004. These standards evolved into GOTS, which was developed by The International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard. The OTA (USA), The Soil Association (UK), International Association Natural Textile Industry (‘IVN', Germany), and the Japan Organic Cotton Association made up the Working Group. GOTS is a voluntary third party certification standard for ‘process claims' for a product based on a set of criteria.
GOTS covers all post-harvest processing, from storage of organic fiber at the gin or warehouse, to yarn manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, wet finishing, quality assurance, and labeling and contains an extensive list of chemicals/materials permitted for, or prohibited from, use in organic fibre processing under the standards. It was approved in 2007. These standards define the requirements to ensure the organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing, including labelling to provide some assurance to the end consumer. The evaluation criteria are designed to minimize negative environmental effects and risks to human health. For example, materials allowed under the standards cannot be known to cause cancer, genetic damage, birth defects or endocrine disruption. In addition, they must be biodegradable and meet strict requirements which limit toxicity. Examples of materials prohibited by the standards include chlorine bleach, formaldehyde, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) (often found in screen printing systems), alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) (often found in detergent, soap or chemical mixtures as surfactant and in wetting agents for scouring), and some azo dyes.

The standard is valid for fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes and covers the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. GOTS can be considered a ‘safe harbour for textile label' process claim certified by a third party but can not be tested in a lab. With the publication of the revised Version 2.0 and the introduction of the logo and labelling system the GOTS offers a high accountability for a reliable quality assurance concept.

The key criteria are:
- Two label system with at least 95% respective 70% organic fibres required in plain fabric
- All inputs have to meet basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability
- No toxic heavy metals, no formaldehyde, no GMO
- Environmental policy required in manufacturing sites
- Social criteria [based on International Labour Organization (ILO) key criteria] are compulsory
- Dual system of quality assurance consisting of on-side inspection and residue testing
Conditions for Approval: There is a list of Approved Certification Bodies on the GOTS website. One of these is (IMO) Institute for Marketecology in Switzerland. (See below) and Control Union. GOTS requires certification by Certification Bodies, accredited according to ISO 65, approval by the International Working Group and a contract with it. Conditions for Approval: There is a list of Approved Certification Bodies on the GOTS website. One of these is (IMO) Institute for Marketecology in Switzerland and Control Union. GOTS requires certification by Certification Bodies, accredited according to ISO 65, approval by the International Working Group and a contract with it.

GOTS: http://www.global-standard.org/

UPDATE [3/1/11]:

GOTS has just released Version 3.0 of its organic fibre processing standard.

http://www.just-style.com/news/global-organic-textile-standard-gots-updated_id110461.aspx